Hot showers in Nagarkot

by Annalise on December 20, 2009

Our first excursion out of Kathmandu following Sophie’s arrival was to a small but much visited community perched on a particularly high hill just north and east of the city. Nagarkot boasts the best view of the Himalayas from within the K-du valley. David had already been there for an overnight stay to provide training through work. For the rest of us, it was our first time.


We asked Suvas, our favorite cab driver to take us the approx. 25kms to Nagarkot and because of a bandh (general strike) planned for the Wednesday, we left late Tuesday afternoon. Traffic was crazy leaving the city; everyone must have had the same idea to get out of town before the bandh began as only emergency vehicles are allowed once it starts. By the time we reached the climbing part of the trip we were well past sundown and navigating amidst all manner of vehicles and pedestrians, many without lights. As we inched our way up the last stretch of steep pot-holed road, now two hours after having set out, Suvas grew unusually quiet was looking increasingly concerned. The Nagarkot Farmhouse Resort was still a couple of kilometers ahead on this rocky path and he had another 2 hours ahead of him to drive back to the city that evening. We decided to get out headlamps on and hike in the last stretch to save Suvas’s car and enjoy a starry night walk.

When we reached the Farmhouse Resort, we found we were the only guests. The Farmhouse is a lovely group of relatively modern buildings which provide a clean and spacious cabin-like experience. The view of the valley on all three sides is spectacular. The owners put us up in the very best rooms (ask for room 15!) at a discounted rate. All of the other 20 or so guests who’d reserved for that evening had canceled due to the bandh anticipate for Wednesday. Our hosts although understandably disappointed with this turn of events, laid all of their attention and care out for us. They prepared a fantastic Nepali meal for the 4 of us which finished with gorgeous peach filled crepes. They lit the natural fireplace in their cozy lounge and made us feel very much at home. We definitely knew we’d come to the right place when they asked if we’d like them to place hot water bottles in our beds as we finished our drinks. Oh yes!

It was arranged that if the morning was clear, they’d call us in time to enjoy the spectacular sunrise over the Himalayan peaks. If it was foggy or cloudy, they’d simply wait for us to join them for our breakfast. As it turned out we awoke naturally after the sun was up so we knew there was fog. We enjoyed truly hot showers (not something to take for granted in Nepal) and a fine breakfast and visit with the owners. Before heading out we viewed their meditation centre and had a tour of the resort’s huge garden plots and fruit orchards where they grow the majority of their restaurant food as well as apples, pears and peaches for jams and preserves.

We learned that the bandh planned for Wednesday was canceled at the last minute and the day in the city proceeded as any other. How difficult for these places to operate and sustain their businesses given the vagaries and impact of political actions here.

As we set out, the fog lifted and we paused to capture the Nagarkot view. Next stop, Changu Narayan via Sankhu; a trek of about 6 hours.

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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Shirley Robertson December 21, 2009 at 1:05 pm

Wow, that sound fabulous. Good that you got out of the city again. Thinking of you always.

LeeAnne December 21, 2009 at 7:41 pm

I have been wondering about your view of the Himalayas. I’m glad you got a chance to do some hiking with Sophie and also enjoy the mountain views.

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